Domaine Weinbach – From the Capuchins to the Faller Family in Alsace's Finest Terroirs
- Song Wei
- Jan 13
- 10 min read
Updated: Feb 10
Winter in Alsace is a magical season, with the crisp air carrying the festive cheer of its renowned Christmas markets. My visit to Domaine Weinbach was on one such sunny, dry, but cold day in the picturesque town of Kaysersberg, nestled in the heart of Alsace. Despite the chill biting through my layers, I was brimming with excitement for the guided tasting at this historic estate. As a longtime admirer of the estate’s wines, particularly its exquisite Gewurztraminer, this visit felt like a dream come true. Years ago, I had my first taste of the varietal Gewurztraminer Cuvée Laurence and was completely captivated by its unparalleled quality, a moment that solidified my devotion to this varietal and Domaine Weinbach’s mastery.
Arriving at Domaine Weinbach, I drove through the serene Alsatian countryside and parked my car in the estate’s charming courtyard. With some time before the tour began, I took the opportunity to explore the courtyard and the surrounding vineyards. The vines, now in their dormant state, stood bare and lifeless, stripped of the verdant foliage and fruit that define them in the growing season. The harvest was long over, and the vineyard seemed to be in a deep slumber, its skeletal appearance a stark reminder of winter’s stillness. Yet, this dormancy held a quiet beauty, a sense of rest and renewal as the vines prepared for another year of growing, ripening, and crafting the next vintage.
As I made my way back to the estate, I was warmly welcomed by none other than Catherine Faller herself, whose gracious hospitality immediately put me at ease. Catherine is the great lady of Alsace wines. She inherited the estate from her father and was among the first women in France to head a renowned wine estate. To my delight, she introduced me to her son, Eddy, who would be guiding me through the tasting session. I was pleasantly surprised to learn that the Faller family still resides in this historic estate, adding an intimate and personal touch to the experience. The tasting session was held in a quaint, antique-filled room within the estate. I was invited into their home, a warm and intimate space filled with character and history, with the family eager to share their legacy, their secrets, and their pride—their wines. Each bottle reflected not only their craftsmanship but also the unique terroir of the vineyards they so passionately nurture.
Eddy began the session by sharing the fascinating history of Domaine Weinbach. The estate takes its name from the bach (meaning “small stream” in German) that crosses its grounds. Hence, Weinbach translates to "small stream of wine," a fitting name for such a storied winemaking estate. It was originally established in 1612 by Capuchin monks and spanned just 7 hectares at the time. During the French Revolution, the estate was confiscated and sold as national property. It was later acquired in 1898 by the Faller brothers. They passed it on to Théo, their son and nephew, who became a pivotal figure in Alsatian viticulture.
Théo Faller was a passionate advocate for the recognition of Alsace as an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée, tirelessly promoting the region's exceptional terroirs and grape varieties. Deeply in love with the estate, he expanded, developed, and refined it, laying the foundation for its success. From 1979 onward, his wife Colette and daughters Catherine and Laurence carried forward his vision with the same dedication to producing great wines of Alsace. Since 2016, Catherine has taken the helm of Domaine Weinbach alongside her sons Eddy and Théo. Today, the estate has grown to encompass 38 hectares of exceptional vineyard plots, a testament to the family’s enduring commitment to excellence.
Later, Eddy introduced the different terroirs where the estate’s vineyards are located. Domaine Weinbach's rich and diverse terroirs boast exceptional geological characteristics, including granite, marl-limestone-sandstone, and limestone. These are complemented by topological features, with a predominance of hillside vineyards, and climatic advantages, as the exposures benefit from the best sunshine in the privileged microclimate of the Kaysersberg valley. Each terroir imparts its unique personality to the wines produced at Domaine Weinbach, with particular affinities for different grape varieties. The estate’s approach to vine growing is rooted in a deep respect for the terroirs and nature, ensuring that only the highest quality grapes are produced—grapes that have the potential to create great wines.
Domaine Weinbach’s production is certified organic by Ecocert and biodynamic by Demeter. Key elements of viticulture at Domaine Weinbach include strict yield control, ploughing and working the soil to encourage life in the terroirs and promote deep rooting, and a commitment to organic practices since 1990, avoiding weedkillers, fertilisers, treatment products, and chemical insecticides. Since 1998, biodynamics has been practiced at Domaine Weinbach, initially on part of the vineyards, and expanded to all plots since the 2005 vintage. This approach, which respects the natural life cycle and stimulates the biological activity of the soil, enhances the expression of the terroir in the grapes, intensifying their flavours. A vine raised in harmony with its environment produces more complex, authentic, and unique wines.
The tasting session began with the 2023 vintage of Pinot Noir from the Clos des Capucins plot. The Clos des Capucins is a historic enclosure that spans 5 hectares, protected by the surrounding walls of the former Capuchin convent. Its origins date back to 890, when Empress Richard donated it to the Abbey of Etival, which later allocated part of it to the Capuchin monks at the start of the 17th century. Located at the bottom of a slope and well shielded from the winds by the surrounding hills, the Clos des Capucins boasts sandy-silty soils on gravel and granite pebbles. This terroir benefits from rapid soil warming due to the pebbles on its surface, resulting in wines that mature slightly earlier than those from other vineyards. The wine underwent one year of ageing in old oak barrels, which imparted structure and complexity without overwhelming the fruit. On the nose, the wine revealed elegant aromas of fresh red fruits, complemented by delicate floral notes. On the palate, it offered silky tannins with flavours of ripe red fruits such as cherry and raspberry, along with a subtle touch of spices, creating a harmonious and refined profile.
Next, I tasted the 2023 vintage of Pinot Blanc. The wine presented a nose of ripe pear, citrus fruits, and pineapple, with subtle vegetal notes adding depth. On the palate, it was remarkably fresh, well-balanced, and smooth, offering a delightful acidity that enhanced its drinkability. The finish was long and lingering, with mineral notes and a touch of honey, adding complexity to this refreshing wine.
After that, I tasted a flight of varietal Riesling wines made from grapes grown on different terroirs, each showcasing a unique expression of this iconic grape. The four Rieslings I sampled were Riesling Cuvée Théo 2022, Riesling Cuvée Colette 2022, Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg 2022, and Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg Ste Catherine 2021, which offered a fascinating journey through varying levels of quality and terroir. Starting with the Riesling Cuvée Théo 2022, the vines are planted in the Clos des Capucins and adjacent vineyards, on a gravel and sandy loam terroir over a bed of pebbles. Situated on flat land at the entrance to the valley, the vineyards are protected from the wind by the surrounding hills. This wine had an elegant nose with notes of white flowers, tangerine, and bergamot. On the palate, it offered a perfect balance between the maturity of the fruit, the fresh acidity, noticeable residual sugars, and the vibrant tension that makes this wine so compelling.
Moving on to the Riesling Cuvée Colette 2022, the vines are planted at the bottom of the Grand Cru Schlossberg hillside at an altitude of 230 meters, on sandy soils over granite bedrock. The Grand Cru Schlossberg, with its steep south-facing slopes and rich mineral soils including potassium, magnesium, and phosphorus, imparts a pure, fruity expression with remarkable finesse. This wine had a complex nose of white fruits, almonds, and brioche. The palate was generous and layered with the same complexity, adding roundness and volume, with a slightly saline finish.
The Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg 2022 presented a striking nose with flinty, reductive notes of smokiness, lemon zest, and yellow peach. As the wine opened, white and yellow peaches emerged more prominently. On the palate, it was light yet mineral-driven, with stony minerality and juicy stone fruits, making it a refreshing and lively expression of the terroir.
Finally, the Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg Ste Catherine 2021, the pinnacle wine of the flight, was made from 70-year-old vines farmed biodynamically in shallow soils of granitic rock and sand at the oldest plot on the lower part of the Grand Cru Schlossberg. Harvested by hand at peak ripeness, this wine had a nose of white peach, citrus fruits, honey, and saline minerality. The palate was elegant, deep, powerful, and precise, with stunning length and freshness, making it a truly emotional wine that beautifully encapsulates the essence of the terroir.
Later in the session, I tasted two remarkable wines: Pinot Gris Altenbourg 2022 and Pinots Grand Cru Furstentum 2022. The Pinot Gris Altenbourg 2022 comes from the Altenbourg area, situated on a gentle slope between 220 and 300 meters above sea level, just below the Grand Cru Furstentum boundary. The soils here are marl-calcareous-sandstone, similar to those of Furstentum but with a higher proportion of sand, allowing for slightly earlier ripening. Altenbourg’s unique terroir promotes exceptional ripeness, making it particularly suited to producing refined Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Noir. The wine displayed intense aromas of over-ripened quince, stewed pear and honey on the nose. On the palate, it was full-bodied and rich, with a delightful liveliness that brought freshness to the ripe fruit. The wine was concentrated and offered superb length, finishing with a balanced freshness that was truly astonishing.
The Pinots Grand Cru Furstentum 2022 is a blend of Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, where the Pinot Blanc contributes acidity and crispness. The Furstentum vineyard, located between 300 and 400 meters above sea level in the municipalities of Kientzheim and Sigolsheim, features brown, calcareous soils with a stony, shallow, and filtering structure, enriched with marl-calcareous-sandstone terroirs. The marl imparts power and structure, while the sandstone adds elegance, liveliness, and complexity. South-facing with steep slopes, the terroir benefits from optimal sunshine and heat retention, resulting in grapes that achieve superb maturity. First documented in 1330 as part of the convent of Basel’s inventory, Furstentum is renowned for wines with remarkable aromatic complexity, finesse, and ageing potential. This wine offered a nose bursting with yellow and stone fruits, honey, almonds, and toasted notes. The palate was powerful yet harmonious with the nose, featuring a long and aromatic finish enhanced by a subtle saline hint. Truly an anthology bottle, this wine promises even greater rewards with time spent ageing in the cellar.
Subsequently, I tasted the MVØ 2022, an orange wine crafted from a blend of two-thirds Gewurztraminer and one-third Pinot Gris. The wine underwent three weeks of skin contact and was aged in foudres, with no added sulphites and no filtration. On the nose, it was exceptionally aromatic, showcasing pronounced notes of lychee, grapefruit, and rose, characteristic of Gewurztraminer. Unlike the pungent orange wines made from Ribolla Gialla in Italy’s Friuli-Venezia Giulia, this wine was a revelation. Having had poor experiences with orange wines in the past, I was thoroughly surprised by the MVØ 2022—it completely changed my perception of the style. It was my favourite wine of the visit and a true hidden gem.
Afterward, I moved on to taste the Gewurztraminer Cuvée Laurence 2023 and Gewurztraminer Altenbourg 2023. The Cuvée Laurence 2023 greeted me with a captivating nose of yellow fruits, candied mirabelle plums, white flowers, and delightful honeyed and brioche notes. On the palate, it opened with a rich attack, followed by a beautifully balanced structure and a refined finish. The wine offered a tangy freshness that created an extraordinary harmony. Meanwhile, the Gewurztraminer Altenbourg 2023 presented itself as a sweet nectar on the nose, exuding aromas of candied orange peel, white flowers, nutmeg, and a subtle hint of roasting. The palate was equally remarkable, showcasing stunning balance, an airy mouthfeel, and a sense of voluptuousness that extended into a long, satisfying finish.
To conclude the tasting session, Eddy presented the Pinot Gris Altenbourg Vendanges Tardives 2020, a wine that perfectly encapsulated the elegance of late harvest Alsatian wines. This cuvée is crafted from a blend of several plots of Pinot Gris, harvested at an overripe stage with partial botrytisation. The initial nose revealed notes of fresh honey intertwined with candied mirabelle plum and a hint of button mushroom. As the wine opened up, aromas of white and exotic fruits emerged, adding depth and complexity. On the palate, the attack was fleshy and flavourful, driven more by its natural texture than its sweetness. The length was nothing short of breathtaking, delivering a rounded profile that maintained impeccable balance.
The tasting session was truly an eye-opener, made all the more memorable by Eddy's generous, kind, and welcoming demeanour. He graciously allowed me to taste nearly the entire range of wines produced by his family's estate, offering a comprehensive experience of their exceptional craftsmanship. Before leaving, I bought one bottle each of the Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg Ste Catherine 2020 and Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Furstentum 2020. The 2020 vintage held special meaning for me. To my delight, Eddy agreed to sign the bottles, turning them into cherished mementos of this incredible visit. He also posed for a photo with me—an experience I likened to meeting a celebrity—a perfect end to a truly unforgettable day.
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