Château Pape Clément – The Timeless Heritage – 1252 and Beyond
- Song Wei
- Aug 12, 2024
- 8 min read
Updated: Feb 10
On a radiant day under a clear blue sky, I embarked on an unforgettable journey to Château Pape Clément. Nestled in the heart of Bordeaux at Pessac, which is very close to my laboratory, this historic winery, established in 1252, beckons with its rich heritage and renowned vintages. As I approached, the sunlit vineyards and the elegant château set a picturesque scene, promising a day filled with exquisite wine tasting and a deep dive into centuries of winemaking tradition. Join me as I explore the elegance and history of Château Pape Clément through a guided tour, where each sip tells a story of passion and excellence.
The guided tour began on the gravel ground in front of the magnificent Château Pape Clément. The scene was set against the backdrop of the historic castle, its timeless architecture standing proudly under the clear blue sky. Our guide welcomed us warmly and started with a captivating history lesson. Though history might seem boring, learning about Château Pape Clément's past was crucial. It helped me to appreciate the rich legacy and the exquisite wines even more, enhancing my overall experience. This fascinating narrative set the stage for my exploration of the chateau’s storied vineyards and cellars.
I learned that the first harvest took place in 1252. Originally named Domaine de la Mothe, the estate was purchased at the end of December 1299 by Gaillard de Goth, at the behest of his brother Bertrand de Goth, who was then the Archbishop of Bordeaux and thus unable to own property. In 1305, Bertrand de Goth was elected Pope with the support of King Philip IV of France, taking the name Pope Clement V. In 1306, just before Gaillard de Goth's death, Pope Clement V inherited the Pessac estate, which then adopted his papal name. Pope Clement V had a profound passion for viticulture, and he actively developed the vineyard of la Mothe. His influence extended beyond Bordeaux, significantly contributing to the growth of viticulture in the Rhône Valley and around Avignon. His legacy includes helping certain growths in regions like Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, and Beaumes-de-Venise to rival the finest Bordeaux wines.
Fast forward to 1864, Jean-Baptiste Clerc, a significant figure in the history of Château Pape Clément, constructed the current neo-Gothic style château. During his tenure, over 30 hectares of vineyards were replanted, and that same year, the estate was awarded the grand ministerial medal for the most outstanding vineyard. Clerc's efforts elevated Château Pape Clément to prominence, making it one of the best-known growths in the Gironde. However, on June 8, 1937, a devastating hailstorm destroyed almost all the vineyards. In 1939, Paul Montagne purchased the estate and undertook the restoration of the vineyards and the cellar. His dedication paid off, and in 1959, the quality of Château Pape Clément's Grand Vin was recognized with its inclusion in the classification of Grands Crus Classés de Graves.
The guide then recounted how the estate was eventually taken over by the visionary Bernard Magrez at the turn of the 1980s. It was then his very first vineyard. Under his stewardship, Château Pape Clément transformed into a beacon of winemaking excellence, marrying tradition with innovation to produce some of the finest wines in Bordeaux. He had restored the estate to high-level production, enlisting the expertise of renowned consulting oenologist Michel Rolland. He introduced vinification by plot, ensuring complexity and refinement in the wine. This method involves vinifying grapes from different plots in separate tanks, allowing each to fully express its unique characteristics before blending. At the time of writing, he owns 42 vineyards in 9 countries around the world.
At Château Pape Clément, grape growing practices are deeply intertwined with the unique terroir of the Pessac-Léognan appellation in Graves. The vineyard spans 60 hectares and benefits from the Pyrenean gravel layer ‒ the oldest alluvial terrace, overlaid with a thin film of Garonne gravel from 1.5 million years ago. This diverse soil composition nurtures a variety of grape varieties, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot for red wines, as well as Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Sémillon and Muscadelle for white wines.
Precision viticulture is implemented through the innovative use of drones. These drones, alongside other advanced technologies like the Green-Seeker and self-steering tractors, enable precise monitoring and management of the vineyard, ensuring optimal growth conditions and improving overall grape quality. The Green-Seeker technology allows the vineyard manager to finely measure and interpret the vigour in the vineyard throughout the year. The mapping obtained illustrates the evolution of the vineyard in real time and is a precious tool for decision-making; it allows a reliable estimate of the nutritional needs of the plants and control of their vigour throughout the year and measurement.
Roses are planted at the front row of each vine in the vineyard primarily for their function as early warning systems for disease, particularly powdery mildew and downy mildew, which are common threats to grapevines. Roses are very sensitive and highly susceptible to these diseases and will show symptoms earlier than the vines, allowing vineyard managers to take preventive or remedial action to protect the vines. They have historically been used as indicators of soil health and pest presence. Moreover, roses can also serve a practical purpose by helping guide the horses when horses are used for ploughing in vineyards. Their bright colours and distinctive shapes can act as visual markers, helping the horse and handler align correctly with the rows and turn efficiently at the end of each row.
The implementation of sustainable viticulture is evident through the adoption of practices such as ploughing by horse, using electric tractors, eco-confined spraying, and biodynamic trials. These efforts are recognized by the vineyard's High Environmental Value (HVE 3) certification, the highest environmental distinction by the French state, and continuous improvement initiatives with Terra Vitis. These sustainable practices reflect Château Pape Clément's commitment to excellence, blending traditional methods with modern innovations to protect and enhance their unique terroir.
In terms of grape harvesting, the grapes are harvested by hand and placed into crates weighing 10 to 12 kg to minimise the crushing of berries and release of juice. Trained pickers conduct an initial selection directly on the vine, ensuring only the finest bunches are chosen. Once in the cellar, the grapes undergo a second manual sorting on the sorting tables to select those at optimal ripeness.
Excellence in winemaking is showcased through the precise practice of parcellisation, where the vineyard is mirrored in the vats. The 28 vats correspond to specific plots of varying ages and grape varieties, allowing for meticulous blending or separation based on the micro-terroir's complexity. This approach ensures that the unique characteristics of each plot are respected and optimised, reflecting the estate's deep knowledge and dedication to producing superior wines. After fermentation, Château Pape Clément red wine ages for 18 months in 70% new barrels, whereas their second label Le Clémentin is aged for 12 months in 30% new barrels. Both wines are aged in the tranquility of their cellars. At the time of visit, each of their new French oak barrel costs €1000. Their barrels are used only twice before being replaced by a new barrel.
At the end of the guided tour, I had the opportunity to taste 3 wines, namely their third labels L'Âme de Pape Clément Blanc 2020 vintage and L'Âme de Pape Clément Rouge 2019 vintage, and their grand vin Château Pape Clément Rouge 2017 vintage.
For L'Âme de Pape Clément Blanc 2020 vintage, this blend is made up of 75% Semillon, 15% Sauvignon Blanc, 9% Sauvignon Gris and 1% Muscadelle. On the nose, it had a somewhat restrained aroma profile. While it still offered the notes of lemon, citrus fruits and grassiness with a hint of green bell pepper, these aromas were more subtle and not as immediately pronounced as in some other white wines. The floral and mineral undertones were delicately woven into the bouquet, creating a more nuanced and refined aromatic experience. On the palate, its acidity gave it a lively character. Overall, it was simple with a short finish, but refreshing.
Moving on to L'Âme de Pape Clément Rouge 2019 vintage, this blend is composed of 48% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Cabernet Franc. This third label presented an approachable profile. It had a mix of red fruits, notably plum, and black fruit flavours, such as cherry and blackberry, accompanied by subtle hints of spice and earthy undertones. This wine had a lively ruby core with tightly knitted tannins and medium finish, making it an accessible yet sophisticated choice for red wine enthusiasts.
The tasting session concluded with the grand vin Château Pape Clément Rouge 2017 vintage. This wine is a blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc. It had a beautiful medium to deep garnet colour. On the nose, it showcased exuberant notes of blackberries, blackcurrants, spices and tobacco. It was medium-bodied and well balanced with a refreshing yet elegant acidity, delivering layers of black fruits and oak with wonderful length and power that will age gracefully in the medium to long term.
The day had been a delightful journey through the rich history and exquisite craftsmanship of this storied estate. Unable to resist the allure, I found myself sitting on the lawn in front of the château, soaking in the beauty of its elegant architecture and the serene surroundings. From the moment I stepped onto the lush grounds to the final sip of the exceptional wines, every detail had been a testament to the passion and dedication that define Château Pape Clément. I found myself drawn to the cellar door and bought a bottle of Château Pape Clément Rouge 2020 vintage. This year holds personal significance for me, making the purchase of this bottle a poignant memento of my experience. To my delight, I even managed to get the signature of Manon Ruffie ‒ the right-hand lady of the chief winemaker; a moment that felt akin to securing a celebrity’s autograph. With its promise of rich, complex flavours and a connection to a meaningful moment in my life, this wine now represents not just the legacy of the château, but also a cherished memory of my visit.
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