Château Pichon Baron – From Family Legacy to Modern Excellence
- Song Wei
- Dec 16, 2024
- 10 min read
Updated: Feb 10
On a beautiful sunny day, I arrived at Château Pichon Baron, instantly mesmerised by the stunning façade of this iconic estate. Castles don’t come more picture-perfect than this 19th-century masterpiece, with its elegant turrets and spires beautifully reflected in the tranquil waters of the forecourt’s rectangular pond. The charm of the château was palpable, as if it had stepped straight out of a fairy tale, inviting me to explore the rich history and exquisite wines that lay within its storied walls.
Château Pichon Baron has roots that trace back to the late 17th century, a period known as the Grand Siècle or "great century" in France, characterised by the reign of Louis XIV. In 1689, Pierre Desmezures de Rauzan, a prominent wine merchant and steward for the esteemed estates of Latour and Margaux, acquired plots of vines near the Latour estate, laying the foundation for what would become Enclos Rauzan. These carefully chosen vines were later included in the dowry of his daughter Thérèse when she married Baron Jacques Pichon de Longueville in 1694, marking the official establishment of the Pichon Baron estate. This illustrious estate quickly garnered an enduring reputation for quality, becoming a cherished family legacy that would be passed down through generations.
The evolution of Château Pichon Baron took a significant turn in 1850 when the property was divided into two sections. Baron Raoul Pichon de Longueville retained the portion that would become the Pichon Baron estate, while his three sisters established Pichon Comtesse with their share. Driven by pride in his prestigious property, Baron Raoul commissioned the construction of the château in 1851, drawing inspiration from Renaissance architecture. This striking structure, complete with its iconic turrets, has since stood as a testament to the estate's grandeur. The estate’s reputation further solidified during the Universal Exhibition of 1855 when its wine was classified as a Second Grand Cru Classé, a prestigious recognition initiated by Emperor Napoleon III to showcase the finest Bordeaux wines.
In 1933, the Pichon de Longueville family sold the estate to the Bouteiller family, who managed it for over five decades, preserving its storied legacy while navigating the changing landscape of the wine industry.
A new chapter began for Château Pichon Baron in 1987 when it was acquired by AXA Millésimes. This acquisition aimed to revitalise the estate, allowing its historic vineyards to reach their full potential. To achieve this vision, an architectural competition was launched in collaboration with the Paris Pompidou Centre, resulting in the construction of modern operational buildings that complemented the estate's heritage. A comprehensive renovation of the vat room and cellar commenced in 1988, alongside updates to the château itself.
Today, the 19th-century château's elegance is reflected in an ornamental pool that stretches majestically in front of it. Since 2008, this tranquil expanse has concealed an underground cellar, reminiscent of Jules Verne's Nautilus, providing stunning views of both the water and sky. The barrel cellar embodies a commitment to excellence, ensuring that the production process remains true to the fine traditions of great Pauillac wines while looking toward a promising future.
Nestled near renowned neighbours like Château Léoville Las Cases, Château Léoville Poyferré and Château Talbot, the vineyards of Château Pichon Baron not only embody a storied history but also represent a commitment to producing exceptional wines that honour the spirit of this remarkable terroir. The estate boasts a remarkable vineyard spanning 75 hectares in the prestigious Pauillac appellation, located approximately 40 kilometres north of Bordeaux on the left bank of the Garonne River.
This land is a winemaking paradise, characterised by its quaternary gravel deposits, large pebbles and sandy soils. The unique composition of the subsoil facilitates water retention, nourishing the vines' roots, while the undulating terrain ensures optimal drainage. The combination of these elements creates a terroir that is not only ideal for vine growth but also enhances the quality of the grapes, making Pauillac one of the most esteemed regions for Bordeaux wines. The maritime climate of the Pauillac region is another critical factor contributing to its viticultural success. Its proximity to the Garonne River moderates temperatures, providing a mild environment that supports healthy vine development.
The vineyard is meticulously planted, with a composition of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. Each parcel is carefully tended to, receiving individualised care that considers its specific profile. The estate employs high-density planting for Cabernet Sauvignon, with approximately 9,600 vines per hectare, ensuring that the vines struggle slightly, which enhances the quality of the grapes. The average age of the vines at Château Pichon Baron is 35 years, with the oldest reaching around 75 years old.
The estate employs a rigorous selection process that focuses on the noblest soils and older vines to create its flagship grand vin, Château Pichon Baron. The "Butte de Pichon Baron," the estate's most historic and sought-after land, is exclusively dedicated to the grand vin, making it the cornerstone of Pichon Baron's blend. This plot has been in use since the estate's inception in 1694, reflecting the rich legacy of the vineyard. In addition to its grand vin, Château Pichon Baron produces two second wines, Les Tourelles de Longueville and Les Griffons de Pichon Baron, crafted from other parcels of the vineyard. A small plot of Sémillon is also cultivated through sélection massale for the production of Les Griffons Blanc, which has yet to be released on the market.
Château Pichon Baron is committed to sustainable practices to protect its exceptional legacy for future generations. While not organically certified, the estate maintains the freedom to apply treatments when necessary based on the vintage. The vineyard management includes the planting of cover crops like radishes and mustard to prevent erosion and enhance soil nutrients. The careful management of cover crops, which are compressed by tractors rather than being mowed, prevents moisture accumulation, further ensuring the health of the vineyard. To further support the ecosystem, the estate utilises its own compost for fertilisation, reducing reliance on external inputs. Additionally, soil analysis is conducted every five years to decide which plots will be left fallow, with 3% of the land left fallow at all times. The estate has also invested in solar panels to provide renewable electricity, reinforcing its commitment to sustainability at every level.
Next, I visited the winemaking facility, where the heart of the winemaking process comes to life. Upon entering the grape reception area, I was immediately struck by the efficiency of the operation. The facility features a cold room specifically designed to cool the grapes upon arrival, ensuring they are at the ideal temperature for processing. This careful handling is essential to preserve the integrity and quality of the fruit.
The journey of the grapes begins with a meticulous sorting process that involves two rows of sorting machines, designed to ensure only the best fruit makes it to the next stages.
The process unfolds in five key steps. First, the crates are emptied and cleaned thoroughly to ensure they are sanitised and ready for reuse. During harvest, the estate handles around 40,000 crates, each weighing 8 kilograms, requiring swift and efficient preparation to keep the process flowing smoothly.
The second step involves a sorting table, where approximately eight people work diligently to examine the grapes. This manual inspection allows for the removal of any damaged or unripe fruit, further ensuring quality.
Once sorted, the grapes move on to the third step: destemming. Here, the stems are separated from the grapes and collected for compost, contributing to the estate’s commitment to sustainability.
The fourth step introduces an advanced optical sorting system. This innovative machine involves a conveyor belt that operates at an impressive speed of three meters per second. Using compressed air, it removes any rejected berries, ensuring that only the finest grapes continue down the production line.
Finally, the process concludes with the grape crusher, which gently breaks the grapes to release their juices and prepare them for fermentation. This meticulous attention to detail at every stage of the winemaking process reflects Château Pichon Baron’s dedication to producing exceptional wines that honour their remarkable terroir.
Then, I visited the impressive vat room, a striking circular space designed with purpose: the round layout shortens the distance the wine needs to travel during production, streamlining the process and enhancing quality control. The room is equipped with 87 different fermentation vessels, ranging from stainless steel to oak vats, each contributing subtly different qualities to the winemaking process. Although there is not a huge difference between stainless steel vats and oak vats used for fermentation, the latter can also be used for ageing, which softens the oak influence and brings out more fruit-forward characteristics in the wine.
In addition to the stainless steel vats and oak vats, 20 concrete vats are used to store wine rather than ferment it, providing a neutral vessel that helps preserve the wine's inherent qualities. There are also 20 clay amphorae, custom-built in Italy, which are dedicated specifically for Petit Verdot. This varietal is only used for the estate’s second label and not for the grand vin. The amphorae add a distinct charm and refinement, allowing winemakers to achieve a thinner, more delicate expression of Petit Verdot and better control over variations in ripeness.
Throughout the winemaking process, the ultimate goal is to emphasise the estate’s unique terroir and highlight the character of each vintage. The maceration period lasts around 20 days, beginning with a week of cold skin contact to intensify colour and aromatics, followed by techniques such as rack and return and pumping over to carefully manage extraction. The level of extraction is fine-tuned according to each vat and the specific qualities of the vintage. Alcoholic fermentation is kept gentle at approximately 26 degrees Celsius, and malolactic conversion is aided by cold inoculation of lactic acid bacteria, ensuring a smooth integration of acidity.
After an initial three months of ageing in barrels, the wines are tasted and blended. For the grand vin, the entire volume (approximately 1,500 hL) is blended and then returned to barrels for further ageing. The wines are blended once more before bottling to ensure consistency, resulting in a final product that captures the spirit of both the terroir and the vintage with precision and elegance.
Later, I visited the serene barrel cellar, where the wines of Château Pichon Baron quietly mature. The estate exclusively uses French oak barrels, each chosen for its unique characteristics that subtly enhance the wine’s profile without overpowering its natural flavours. Each barrel has a carefully limited lifespan in the cellar, being used only three times before it is sent to Portugal or Hungary to age still wines, which require less influence from new oak compared to the structured wines of Pauillac.
The estate collaborates closely with 12 different coopers, each contributing barrels with distinct qualities that add complexity to the final blends. The meticulous process of barrel selection and use reflects the team’s commitment to precision and consistency in ageing, which plays a vital role in the final expression of each wine. Pressed wines that do not make it into the final blends are sold as bulk wines to wine merchants.
Ageing in the barrel cellar also includes a traditional racking process under candlelight to separate the wine from the lees, helping to clarify and refine its texture. Racking is done three times per vintage. In keeping with their careful approach, Château Pichon Baron does not use egg whites for fining, allowing the wines to retain their pure and unaltered characteristics as they continue to age in this historic, time-honoured cellar.
I had the privilege of exploring the old vintage cellar, a treasure trove of Château Pichon Baron’s rich history. Among the remarkable collection, the oldest bottle is the 1881 vintage ‒ an irreplaceable piece with only one bottle remaining, embodying over a century of winemaking heritage and the legacy of this iconic estate.
The guided tour concluded with an exquisite tasting session featuring an impressive selection of wines from Château Pichon Baron. The session began with the Les Tourelles de Longueville 2019 vintage, a blend of Merlot (68%), Cabernet Sauvignon (19%), Cabernet Franc (8%) and Petit Verdot (5%). It showcased a fruit-forward profile bursting with concentrated black fruit flavours. Next, I sampled the Les Griffons de Pichon Baron 2019 vintage, characterised by its oak influence and spicy notes, made from a blend of 59% Merlot and 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in 50% new oak. Then, I tasted the grand vin Château Pichon Baron 2019 vintage, distinguished by its deep purple colour and a harmonious balance between black fruits and oak, with a remarkable composition of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon that exhibited the best phenolic ripeness ever recorded, surpassed only by the 2021 vintage. This vintage, with 70% new oak, presented silky, velvety textures and ripe tannins. The highlight was the grand vin Château Pichon Baron 2014 vintage, a more concentrated offering with intense flavours, comprising 80% Cabernet Sauvignon. Finally, the tasting included the Les Griffons de Pichon Baron Blanc Sec 2022, a limited production of just 844 bottles that has not yet been released on the market. This 100% Sémillon dry white, aged in barrel, displayed a pale lemon colour with a waxy and oily texture, accompanied by enticing aromas and flavours of stone fruits.
As my visit to Château Pichon Baron came to an end, I reflected on the remarkable journey through its storied history, breathtaking vineyards and innovative winemaking practices. Each aspect of the estate, from the majestic château to the meticulously crafted wines, speaks to a dedication to quality and sustainability that has been upheld for generations. The tasting session provided a delightful conclusion, allowing me to savour the intricate flavours and aromas that define Château Pichon Baron’s exceptional portfolio.
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